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Now that summer has been bid goodbye, I look forward to the bounty of winter fruits and vegetables; apples, figs, pumpkins, beets, sweet potatoes…. Ah, sweet potatoes! They take me down memory lane; all the way to wonderful Delhi winters when coal roasted sweet potatoes would make their autumnal appearance in markets everywhere. We lived just a few blocks from the bustling Lajpat Nagar Market, where shakkarkandi vendors would set up shop in their portable hour glass shaped stands, signaling the arrival of winter.
I was fascinated by the Delhi markets. I had never before seen a one stop market, where hole in the wall shops, cart vendors, tented stalls and narrow multi-leveled air conditioned showrooms all coexisted in one crowded market square. You could shop for everything from fruits and vegetables to blinged out chappals to exquisitely embroidered shawls to homeopathic concoctions to spare parts for household gadgets and everything in-between. And of course street food, there was always street food. Aloo tikki, chaat and other food carts would be positioned strategically in every market. I’d buy a patha of shakkarkandi, spicy, salty, lemony and sweet all at the same time and gawk at the frenetic shoppers making their Diwali purchases, this time of the year. I used to live in the southern city of Chennai before moving to Delhi, where such markets didn’t exist. It was such a novelty for this new transplant to wander the crowded market while savoring a plate of street food.
The coal roasted shakkarkandi would be stacked in rows on a stand with tiny lemons and star fruit interspersed among them. I would wait in anticipation, my mouth watering as the vendor picks a sweet potato warming over hot charcoal and gingerly peels, dices and drops it onto a plate. With a sleight of hand worthy of a magician he would shower the plate with chaat masala, drench it with lemon juice, deftly toss the contents and hand it over with a flourish.
I pulled out my coal fired stove and roasted this season’s first batch of sweet potatoes. The char and smokiness of the charcoal is essential in creating the unique Delhi taste, though I am sure grilling will work just as well. Alternately you can bake in a standard oven. Chaat masala is widely available in Indian stores. I generally don’t buy prepared spice mixes so I made my own chaat masala. Sprinkling salt, pepper, cumin and chili powder is the next best alternative to chaat masala if you don’t have it.
Roasting over charcoal
I placed the sweet potatoes directly over the coal and roasted it for 30 minutes turning it a couple of times.
Baking in the oven
Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees
Make a few slashes with a knife or stab the sweet potatoes in a couple of places with a fork [this is to help release steam and prevent the tuber from exploding]
Roast with skin on, for about 40 minutes. A tooth pick should pass through, make sure you don’t over cook it.
1 1/2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds
2 whole cardamom pods
1 clove, yes just one!
A pinch of fennel seeds
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 1/2 teaspoons amchur
1-1 1/2 teaspoons powdered black salt
A pinch of nutmeg
A couple pinches of sugar
Salt if needed.
Toast the cumin in a pan over medium heat for one minute, shaking the pan to prevent burning.
Turn the stove off and add the cardamom, clove and fennel onto the pan and shake a few times to toast these spices also.
When cooled put the spices and the rest of the ingredients in a spice grinder and grind to a semi-fine powder.
1 cup diced sweet potato
A generous sprinkling of chaat masala
Juice from half a lemon
Mix everything, stick a tooth pick and serve.
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Cooking with Green Tomatoes and Chilies from my garden.
Today, my green tomatoes are the stars in my kitchen. I pulled out the last of my tomato plants and harvested all the tomatoes that have not had a chance to ripen. I look forward to this end of summer crop so I can make my favorite pickle from my childhood. It is simplicity itself. I hope this recipe is useful to all of you looking for new ways to use them. Agreed, a few of the ingredients might not be available in a non Indian home. I am sure you have some Indian friends who’ll be more than happy to lend them to you. Or else they are readily available at Indian stores.
Green Tomato Pickle
3 cups green tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds, whole
2 or 3 mild green chilies, chopped or slit
1/4 teaspoon ‘hing’ or asafoetida [this is what you’d borrow from your Indian friend]
6 curry leaves, [this too]
salt to taste
Warm the oil and drop the mustard seeds in it. Wait till they pop, turn the stove off. Add the green chilies, hing, curry leaves and salt. Twirl everything in the pan. Pour over the chopped tomatoes. Mix everything together. Let it rest for at least fifteen minutes to incorporate all the flavors. Must be refrigerated after half a day. Use within a couple of days.
Serving suggestion, mix with rice.
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Cooking with cucumbers from my garden.
Here are my last few posts about cooking from my garden for the year 2012. I pulled out my remaining cucumber plant a few days ago which still had a few cukes on the vine. I had left them on to mature on the plant so I could prepare this off the beaten path kind of a dish where the cukes are cooked in a coconut mustard sauce.
I’ve noticed some of my home grown cucumbers have a bitter taste just like the ones that I used to eat in India. The department store cukes never seem to have that problem, maybe their growers know something the average home gardener does not know.
Let me share a tip that is widely practiced in India, for eliminating the bitterness from a cucumber. Cut the tip off a cucumber and rub both ends vigorously. A whitish foamy substance oozes out, continue rubbing till all of it comes out. Then cut at the other end and repeat. This way the bitterness causing compound called cucurbitacins are pulled out and you have a perfectly edible cuke. This may be sound like an old wives tale but I swear by it.
The cucurbitacins apparently reside just under the skin and near the stem end, so if a slice of cucumber tastes bitter, peeling the cucumber deeply should also work.
Cucumber in coconut, mustard and yogurt sauce
1/2 teaspoon whole mustard seeds, brown
1/3 cup grated coconut, fresh or frozen
1 hot Thai chili pepper
1 1/2 cups of diced, mature cucumber [peeled]
3/4 cups plain yogurt
Salt to taste
A few curry leaves for garnish
Soak the mustard in a tablespoon of warm water for about fifteen minutes.
Then grind the mustard, coconut and chili in a cup of warm water to a smooth puree, making sure the mustard seeds don’t remain whole.
In a saucepan put the coconut mustard puree, the diced cucumbers and salt to taste. Cook till the sauce is bubbling for at least a couple of minutes.
Cool and add to the yogurt. Granish with curry leaves.
Serve with rice and a spicy dish or just plain Naan.
Thanks for dropping by